A new large pocket watch from Hermès honours the leather and watch-making expertise cultivated by the maison. 

At once classic and contemporary, the Pocket plein cuir watch features a surprising fastening system and an equally unusual leather sheath. This watch harmoniously associates the science of time measurement with the art of travel and leather craftsmanship. 

Two saddle-making techniques are combined in this timepiece: through-seam stitching and “full-grain leather”. The latter consist of superimposing several layers of leather to create a six-mm thickness smoothly encasing the watch. The artisan begins with the short leather ribbon which is shaped to form a loop. He then adds another sturdier layer of cowhide on either side, and each is then covered with a finely-cut piece of smooth, dyed alligator giving the final appearance to its two faces.

Production continues in the sewing atelier with the indenting operation, during which the artisan makes a crease in the leather to indicate the position of each punch hole for the stitching. He does this using a forklike tool fitted with a row of teeth. He hammers the leather while moving the tool along a circle exactly 2.5 mm from the edge. Then comes the sewing phase as such.

The artisan pushes a thread through the entire thickness of the leather, an operation calling for great dexterity and experience, given that the material must be pierced in a perfectly straight manner. It is then finished by heat-smoothing (burnishing) the outer and inner edges, even though the latter will be invisible once the pocket watch is complete. The artisan sets the final touch by dyeing both parts before coating them with protective beeswax.

The watch itself is created in the Hermès workshops. Its white gold case frames a dial crafted using the grand feu enamel technique which involves several manual operations. In addition to manufacturing and preparing the metal base, enamelling involves successive firings at around 800 deg C to melt the glass powder – white for the base and black for the Roman numerals – which then solidifies onto the metal.

The Pocket plein cuir is powered by the Hermès H1912 movement crafted in Switzerland. The special sprinkling of Hs’ motif adorning this mechanical self-winding calibre is visible through a transparent sapphire crystal case-back. This 54mm-diameter model complemented by a white gold bow is available in three colours: burgundy, elegant grey and sapphire blue.

The watch is priced around $37,000.