Tue, May 2, 2017
The new LUC Perpetual Chrono by Chopard interprets the exclusivity of platinum combined with a hand-wound chronograph and a finely crafted perpetual calendar.
Endowed with one of the most sophisticated styles and constructions in the world of Haute Horlogerie, the 20-piece L.U.C Perpetual Chrono limited edition is intended for modern gentlemen, connoisseurs and devotees of exceptional objects.
Entirely developed and produced in the Chopard Haute Horlogerie workshops, LUC calibre 03.10-L is built around a column wheel that controls all chronograph operations including the flyback function.
Zero-resetting is done by means of progressive-contact hammers, a guarantee of precision. It ensures smooth yet firm activation of the timing-related components via a vertical coupling clutch. This was the exceptional base mechanism chosen to house the perpetual calendar of the LUC Perpetual Chrono.
This calendar is recognisable by its large twin-aperture date display, complemented by indications of the day, the month and the cycle of standard and leap years. The finishing touches are set by a day/night indication and an orbital moon-phase display.
The latter guarantees graphic and accurate readings of the age of the moon, with a mere one-day deviation in 122 years. Since the original configuration of this calendar uses the same areas as the chronograph – both involving indications at 3 and 9 o’clock – the architecture of the perpetual calendar had to be adjusted to offset the day/night indicator by a few millimetres. This arrangement determined the specific layout of the dial and its counters, while optimising its legibility.
The L.U.C Perpetual Chrono has earned double certification. The rating precision of its L.U.C Calibre 03.10-L has been certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). In parallel, each of these platinum watches – meaning both movements and cases – has successfully met the evaluation criteria of the Poinçon de Genève.
This distinction of excellence perpetuates the tradition of the Geneva master watchmakers and is a guarantee of superlative craftsmanship. Formerly attributed to the movement only, the Poinçon de Genève currently puts the watch as a whole to the test.
The movement quality criteria are thus backed by other standards unreservedly met by Chopard. The water resistance, the precision, the chronograph and perpetual calendar functions, as well as the power reserve, are meticulously appraised before being awarded the famous quality hallmark. Chopard proudly belongs to the select circle of Haute Horlogerie brands demonstrating such exceptional artisanal savoir-faire.
The LUC Perpetual Chrono stems from high standards embodied in exceptional materials. After a limited series in Fairmined gold launched in 2016, the LUC Perpetual Chrono appears in platinum this year. 950 platinum is a supremely noble and completely stable metal featuring a dark and neutral shade of grey.
The 45 mm case crafted from this rare material is vertically satin-brushed on the sides and polished on the bezel as well as the lugs, thereby creating a textured finish that gives it even greater visual depth.
The dial of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is in solid gold, adorned with a hand-guilloché motif that creates subtle light effects radiating from the large twin-aperture date display. A high-precision galvanic treatment endows it with its deep blue shade, the colour chosen by Chopard for its platinum limited series.
The choice of noble materials extends right the way through to LUC calibre 03.10-L, which is made of nickel silver, a naturally light grey alloy that ideally lends itself to surface treatment but cannot tolerate scratches. Nickel silver is harder than brass, more resistant to oxidation and acquires a natural patina.
Any mistake made in executing the Côtes de Genève motif, circular-graining, satin-brushing and polishing operation omnipresent on the movement is irretrievable. This movement thus calls for the most expert hands exercising their craft in the watchmaking workshops of Chopard Manufacture.
The aura of distinction also encompasses the strap of the LUC Perpetual Chrono, made of hand-sewn large square-scaled vegetable-tanned alligator leather. Given that a LUC watch will be admired from every angle, Chopard has also made the lining in chestnut brown small square-scaled alligator leather.
The perpetual calendar chronograph is a complication in a league of its own: it combines two time frames: the longer scale of a calendar that will provide its accurate indications for centuries, and the shorter one for specific timing operations.
This exceptional object is a sure token of a man with affirmed tastes, an aficionado of impeccable design and a connoisseur of the true value of materials that are embellished by time. Liberally endowed with peerless yet entirely unostentatious quality, the new LUC Perpetual Chrono by Chopard is entirely in tune with this deliberate penchant for refinement.
It is the symbol of an ideal partnership between the hand craftsmanship of the master watchmaker and cutting-edge technology. By associating two prestigious complications featuring a characteristic design, the LUC Perpetual Chrono asserts itself as a distinguished complication watch with an unmistakably distinctive character.
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