Mon, Jun 6, 2016
Harry Winston’s new Twist Automatic is a spectacular high jewellery timepiece inspired by a historic Harry Winston bracelet.
Launched at Baselworld earlier this year, the mesmerising ruby and diamond timepiece with a total of no less than 625 stones is a tribute to the founder whose appreciation for nature was a constant source of inspiration.
Harry Winston translated the fluid lines and organic temperament of the natural world into his jewellery creations prizing the intrinsic beauty of individual gemstones over the setting. His 1960s Emerald Twist Bracelet, twisting with marquise and pear-cut diamonds and emeralds, speaks directly to the three-dimensional forces of nature and attests to the unlimited creative spirit of its founder.
The challenge for Harry Winston’s craftsmen was to capture the essence of the original Emerald Twist Bracelet and convert it into a high jewellery timepiece. This meant finding ways to reproduce the voluptuous volumes and movement of the original bracelet and bring them to life within the more constrictive confines of a timepiece.
The centre of the dial transmits a sensation of permanent motion, like a luxury tourbillon spinning with rubies and diamonds until the end of time. By alternating different cuts of diamonds and setting them at different heights, an amazing effect of volume and dimension is achieved.
The 61 baguette-cut diamonds between 7 and 12 o’clock have been set flush on the dial while the swirl of some of the 50 marquise-cut diamonds that descend from 12 to roughly 6 o’clock are set in a higher position. The 60 rich red marquise-cut rubies enact a similar hypnotic dance in the opposing direction which continues onto the bracelet.
The bracelet, a breathtaking garland of diamonds and rubies, harks back to the twisting volumes of the original high jewellery bracelet of the 1960s. A total of 178 white diamonds and 110 rubies weave in and out of one another with lifelike fluidity.
In addition, 161 baguette-cut diamonds and 5 brilliant-cut rubies are set on the case.
In keeping with Winston’s belief that the stones should guide the design, the marquise-cut diamonds and rubies climb an almost invisible diamond trellis that serves as the backbone of the bracelet. Volume is achieved by setting the central row of marquise higher than the two lateral rows.
The watch is housed in a luxurious platinum case and is equipped with a mechanical automatic movement, on a par with the sophistication of the timepiece. Decorated with Côtes de Genève finishes, rhodium plating and circular graining - all visible through the sapphire crystal case back - the flat balance spring is crafted in silicon, an avant-garde material that is lighter than metal, impervious to magnetic fields and corrosion and less prone to deformation by the pull of gravity, ensuring years and years of impeccable service.
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